Pillowcase dresses: Old linens and Liberty

Posted on Wednesday 27 June 2012 by Tatie

Pillowcase dresses are the thing among the carriage set. Moms love them because they are easy to get on and off, and they make changing easy. Nanas love them because they're easy to make. Retailers must love them too, since they are showing up on the rack.

They're also great for my new craze -- repurposing. Vintage pillowcases are an infinite resource. Don't you love the smell of cotton percale still warm from the iron? Years of a hot iron is what makes these old treasures so soft.

A lady's trousseau once had to include embroidered linens, and we are blessed today to have so many of them available. The hemstitching on this one was disintegrating, so I went into my collection of rococo trim and found the perfect piece to disguise and reinforce it.

Here and at top, Zoë shows off a dress I fashioned from an old printed pillowcase. You run ribbons or sashes through the top casings, front and back. I made my sashes on both of the featured models from Liberty of London cotton lawn. A big thank you goes to my friend Kathleen Murphy for introducing me a couple of summers ago to pillowcase dresses. They pull together several of my favorite things: vintage linens, repurposed styles and designing dresses for my granddaughter, Zoë . Contact me at atelier.cheri@gmail.com if you'd like a vintage pillowcase dress for a little girl you love. As with all of my designs, each is one-of-a-kind. I'll be glad to send you pictures of the pillowcases, trim and Liberty sash fabric available, along with a price for your bespoke creation. à bientôt...Tatie, The Nana

She'll be Running With Scissors!

Posted on Saturday 10 March 2012 by Tatie

This is a post I've waited a long time to write. Sometime around 20 April, my precious daughter and son-in-law will make my dear friend, Cathy Lind, and me grandmothers of a little girl named Zoë. I won't bore you with a doting grandmother's ramblings. But I will take this occasion to launch a creative project I've had in mind for several years: a couture line for little girls, called Running With Scissors. I'll be introducing prototype styles here at atelier chéri, like the dresses above and below, created for Zoë.

These two tiny frocks are repurposed couture -- each was a wispy adult blouse that I restructured as a baby girl's "float," as I like to call them. Chouette (meaning owl), at top, features the tiny pleats and clever buttons of the original, along with olive rayon ribbon rosettes at the shoulders. Lapins aux violettes (rabbits amid the violets), right, was recreated from a voile blouse with the tiniest bunnies all over. The rayon ribbon violets were added.

No layette would be complete without the ubiquitous Onesies. I've added some flounce with ruffles all around. Ciel moderne (modern sky), at right, is trimmed with a retro flour sack print that I found at Scott's antique market in Atlanta. Rose baroque (baroque pink), below, is ruffled with a pink and baroque print with tiny bunnies hiding amid the swirls and flourishes. Both feature tiny ribbon blossoms.

Another layette fundamental is the receiving blanket. Nuages à la campagne (clouds in the country), right, is crafted with green cotton flannel, with a Venise trim edging and a felted lamb or bunny at each corner.

If you haven't yet touched any of the bamboo sustainable fabrics, do so at your earliest opportunity -- it's as soft as a puff of spun sugar. I found a pack of three bamboo receiving blankets and created Rosier des nuages (rose bush in the clouds), below, featuring roses made of ombre picot ribbon and old French lace. I'll make Zoë one more of these comfy covers and reserve the third one for my own snugly needs!

Nothing says baby like a hand-knitted pair of booties. The pair below, Crème de beurre (butter cream), are set off with flowers fashioned from pastel lace tape and pearls, and silk ribbon ties. I have a collection of old baby knitting books, and I turned to an Australian volume for these.

Every little girl needs a treasure box, and I restored the doll trunk below for Zoë. The figures on top are from a sheet of French paper dolls, and above the clasp is stamped "Mademoiselle."

I filled the chest with all the layette items above, plus a few more, and presented it to Olivia and JR at the magnificent baby shower given by my sisters, Sissy Watson, Kit Reuther and Mickie Marberry; JR's aunt, Kathleen Dillehay; and my best friends, Rebecca Pierce and Carolyn Long. Just a few of the yummy things on the menu: Carolyn's handmade pastel marshmallow peeps, Sissy's pork tenderloin and chicken salad on rolls, and Olivia's favorite, petit fours from Sweet and Sassy, topped with, what else, pink icing booties. It was a wonderful day with dozens of friends -- only to be topped by the day coming up in a few weeks, when we welcome Zoë, as we did her mother, at Baptist Hospital. It sho' will be a happy day! à bientôt...Tatie

Bru Jne 11, a French doll who's pretty in pink

Posted on Sunday 18 September 2011 by Tatie

Of all the French antique dolls, I believe the Bru dolls are some of the prettiest. That's why I enjoy recreating the 18" doll known as Bru Jne 11. Above is my latest version.

As a trained Doll Artisan, I paint the features like the original dollmakers did in the Bru atelier, or studio. The tiny lashes and brow strokes, the lips and the blush of the cheeks are as close as possible to a picture of an actual antique, which I go by when painting.

I did something new with this bébé, as this type of doll is called: I created handmade earrings from old Haskell-style nailhead beads. I found a huge lot of these beads on eBay, with doll earrings in mind, and this was the perfect opportunity to use them, since the original Bru Jne 11s also had pierced ears.

I love making the dolls, but my greatest passion is in designing and creating their clothes. I chose palest pink French organdy for this doll's frock, and I highlighted it with antique lace and a rayon ribbon trim. I used an unusual old length of lace from my collection, with antique lace insertion and edging already assembled to make just the right width for the collar and dropped waist skirt. I set the collar off with an heirloom knotted bow made of the tiniest rayon ribbon.

The bébé shows off her elegant ivory pointed French doll shoes that tie with pink rayon ribbon. I made her socks from a delicate piece of antique lace.

I found some wonderful wide French taffeta ribbon at Textile Fabrics here in Nashville. It makes the prettiest bustle to these old-fashioned dropped waist dresses. I repeated the effect with the bow in her hair.

This bébé doesn't mind showing off what she's wearing beneath her frock: a "combinaison" (one piece combination of bloomers and camisole) made from an old piece of eyelet fabric. Like just about everything else she is wearing, it is trimmed old pink rayon ribbon.

One other detail: She wears a handmade human hair wig. The old doll wigs were made either of combed mohair or human hair. I prefer working with the latter. After sewing wefted lengths of it to a wig cap, I cut and style it. I really like the chestnut color and natural curl of this wig. (I buy the wefted hair weave from hair supply shops.)

One of the great things about the craftmanship of antique reproduction dolls: It gives 21st century doll lovers a chance to own a doll that looks almost exactly like the antiques at a fraction of the cost. Unlike many reproduction dollmakers, I am particularly proud that I can offer these dolls to you at prices that are accessible.

I love sharing these beauties with you, and there will be more in the weeks to come. A great Christmas surprise for someone special!

à bientot....Tatie

Little lace for little girls and little dolls

Posted on Wednesday 23 February 2011 by Tatie

Time to make more antique lace available for you at La Dentellière, our lace market here at Atelier Chéri. This round includes an array of my favorite tiny selections -- all less than 1/2" wide.

This is something of an eclectic selection of antique laces, like the styles above. The first two could be used along the edge of an heirloom creation or as a row of fine applique anywhere you need a touch of old lace on a garment. The last one on the right is somewhat similar to the middle piece of lace edging below -- both with the tiniest, airiest use of the lacemaker's finest thread.

Today's new old stock from my antique lace collection will be available for a time on eBay, at a special price. Check out my auctions here.

When you are creating a fancy band for your French handsewn baby gown, you'll need fine old French antique insertion lace, like that above. The method involves building a band with several rows of these straight-edge laces, finely sewn together by hand or with a tiny machine zigzag uniting the edges. Just about the best book ever on the handsewn technique is French Handsewing by my dear friend, Mary Frank King. It's out of print, but you can still find a copy on Amazon.com.

If you'd like to give a bit of an art deco touch to your French handsewn heirloom, the French antique insertion lace selections above are the perfect touch.

Vital to heirloom sewing and French handsewing is entredeux, pictured above, which literally translated from the French means "between two." Makes sense (the French always do): You'll use it to attach lace edging to a tiny collar or cuff. It is correctly pronounced ahn-truh duh, but you may need to call it ahn-truh doh for many American heirloom sewing shops to understand what you need. The first two styles, above, also can be used as shaped lace tape by pulling a thread on one side to make it curve.

The entredeux above is an extra special piece. It is still wrapped and tied to its original card and carries its label from the French department store Au Bon Marché. (The old packaging is not for sale.)

The two selections above came to me on a card labeled Vogue Lingerie Braid (more packaging that I'm keeping for myself), and I believe that refers to the twill tape at top. The other piece looks more like antique lace entredeux or beading, through which a tiny ribbon can be woven.

Now is a good time to pick up this old store stock French antique lace that you'll be needing for that heirloom child's Easter dress or a christening gown or a special antique doll. It will be available on eBay for several weeks, then the pieces that don't sell will be available here at our La Dentellière lace market.

Thanks for looking. à bientôt...Tatie

THE wedding of the year

Posted on Sunday 20 February 2011 by Tatie

Saturday was one of the happiest days of my life: My beautiful daughter, Olivia, my only child, was married in our home to J.R. Lind, my son-in-law and my friend. I don't have to tell you what a beautiful couple they made. (Photos by our precious friend, Jenny Maldonado.)

She wore a gown of tulle, organza and silk shantung, and a chapel length tulle veil. She carried a bouquet of white hydrangeas, roses and lilies. Our friend, Councilman Jason Holleman, officiated.

Not only have I gained the best son-in-law ever, I consider myself blessed to count Cathy and Jim Lind among my friends. I've always had the incredible friendship of Olivia's father, Ken Quillen.

I cannot remember when I had as much fun designing and creating a dress. Olivia wanted pouf, so a layer of satin, four layers of tulle and three tiers of organza later, she got what she wanted. She produced a picture of the headpiece she wanted a week ago (eeeek!), but it was as easy as it was fun. Veil was a no brainer. Something old: antique French lace on her garter; something new: her dress; something borrowed: sister-in-law Julie's beautiful necklace; something blue: a tiny blue knotted heirloom bow on her garter.

Miller, JR and Olivia model matching green Chuck Taylors

Best part of the wedding attire, hands down, though, were the emerald green Chuck Taylor sneakers worn not only by bride and groom but also by the guest of honor, their nephew Miller Moore of Atlanta.

Brian, Julie, Mason and Miller Moore with brother/uncle JR and new sister-in-law/aunt Olivia

J.R.'s sister, Julie Moore, and her adorable family, Brian, Miller and the newest member, Mason, helped make the day a perfect one.

There was but one attendant, but that's all you need when you have one as fine as Jackington Lind. He wore a green bow tie, much like his dad's. For those who don't know J.R., the bow tie is his signature look, and Jack acquired the taste soon after J.R. and Olivia met.

JR and Olivia being their old goofy selves

What we all love most about J.R. and Olivia is their off-beat and very entertaining sense of humor. And that J.R. is a Jeopardy champion. And that they are Predators hockey fans. In fact, after a wedding luncheon at Noshville, we celebrated in a suite at Saturday's Predators game. They got some great face time and a big congratulations on the Megatron. Our opponents: the Phoenix Coyotes, who played on the night of Olivia and J.R.'s first hockey date. (Preds lost both games.)

The most spectacular wedding of the year, no doubt, will be that of Kate Middleton and Prince William. It will outdo and eclipse EVERY OTHER WEDDING this year (and some of you know exactly why that makes me smile). But no wedding will be prettier, sweeter and more filled with love than the one held last Saturday in my home. May J.R. and Olivia's home be filled with as much joy as each of them has brought into all of ours. à bientôt...Tatie

Valentine's Day: Poufed and ruffled paper dolls

Posted on Monday 14 February 2011 by Tatie

Valentine heart box with Marie Antoinette paper doll

There couldn't be a better holiday for frilly, girly things than Valentine's Day. When I found these red foil heart boxes, I had no choice: They cried out for poufed and ruffled paper dolls. So I went to work on some of my signature creations, which start with a vintage French illustration, then are embellished with all manner of pretties and have jointed limbs, like the old Dennison paper dolls.

Valentine heart box with Marie Antoinette paper doll, detail

I get a wave of Marie Antoinette inspiration from time to time -- have been since I first studied her in the 1970s -- and Valentine's Day really is her kind of day. So, my first paper doll is a model of Marie style -- with much pomp and poufery provided by a clear cellophane petticoat and a skirt constructed of printed tissue and ribbon. A soupçon of German glass glitter here and there gave her elegant dimension. Perfect Valentine embellishments from my friends at Blümchen made the tableau complete.

As I may or may not have mentioned before, the color red is usually verboten for me, due to the intense rivalry between my beloved Nashville Predators hockey team and the dastardly Red Wings (whom we humiliated in the last two meetings, I might add). But, I relent at Christmas and Valentine's Day because the creative possibilities abound -- like this lovely lady in red.

She is a variation on a fashion plate from 18th Century French Fashions. (Any fan of the froufrou and frills of the Marie Antoinette era needs a copy of this book filled with color plates.) With the ubiquitous heart-shaped doily, foil greetings and one of the stunning roses from the Prima collection, she is a vision (even if she is wearing red).

There is something especially chic about the play of black and pink together. That, along with an illustration from French Fashion plates of the Romantic Era, inspired this Valentine doll.

This combination gave me a chance to use some of my treasured black lace as the underskirt. You know about my love for lace and the wonderful heirloom creations that it makes possible for children and dolls. But my collection also includes yards of enchanting black lace -- with a sense of mystery all its own. Stay tuned for its introduction here at Atelier Chéri and the opportunity to buy some of it at La Dentellière.

Last was this little ingenue arrayed in tulle and printed tissue. She also was inspired by one of the plates in French Fashion Plates of the Romantic Era, as was the black-and-pink number above.

The Romantic Era (during the 19th century) has been on my mind a little more than usual this Valentine's Day season. Not only is it my first as Mike's wife, but it finds me busy putting together a small family wedding for my precious daughter. Just as I made all of her little smocked and handsewn dresses when she was little, I am making her wedding dress. Amid clouds of tulle and organza, I am having a ball! Hope to share wedding pictures in the next week.

à bientôt...Tatie

La dentelliere: Antique lace now on Etsy, eBay

Posted on Wednesday 29 December 2010 by Tatie

The new year always makes me want to sew baby clothes. Perhaps because I began a great passion in January 1982, when I was first able to get out of the house after delivering my beautiful daughter. First on my agenda: Start her wardrobe of Southern handmade classics. I quickly learned that the only lace worthy of trimming her classic couture was the real thing: from France, all or mostly cotton, preferably old.

Over the years -- long after she decided she was too grown to wear the classics -- I have continued to collect antique French lace, much of it bought at the fabled Paris flea market. Now, it's available to those of you who've got that same great passion for handmade children's heirlooms. I've just listed a trunkful of antique lace at Etsy and on eBay. Best of all are the interesting prices.

Do you need the perfect trim for a baby daygown? Are you beginning a big project, a christening gown or a French handsewn Easter dress? Or do you just need a bit of old lace for a collar or sleeve on a smocked Bishop dress?

Maybe you need just the right piece of French antique lace for an antique doll or antique reproduction -- a bit of trim for a Bru or Jumeau, or a touch of Valenciennes lace for Bleuette's new frock.

Take your time browsing the ateliercheri shop at Etsy, or looking over my auctions on eBay.

Of course, there is plenty more antique lace and vintage trim right here, at Atelier Chéri, in the La Dentellière shop.

As always, I'll keep you updated as I make more of the lace, currently stored in old doll trunks and vintage Barbie cases (stay tuned for blog on those), available in my shops. à bientôt...Tatie

Eine schoene Marguerite: a curious little doll and an unexpected collection of lace

Posted on Tuesday 2 November 2010 by Tatie

Hertwig Marguerite parian doll, Hollyhock

In 1901, the German doll manufacturer Hertwig & Co. introduced the Marguerite dolls -- pretty little girls in curious headwear -- a hollyhock blossom, a four-leaf clover, a butterfly. Above is my take on the hollyhock Marguerite. She will soon be available on a brand new page about dolls, called Ma Poupée (my doll). Watch for details on the Atelier Cheri blog.

Hollyhock, a Hertwig Marguerite parian doll

The thoughtful expression on the faces of these precocious little girls makes you wonder what sort of imaginings they might have on their minds. They are called parian dolls -- very much like china dolls (shoulder and head in one piece, painted hair, cloth body), but without the glossy, glazed finish.

The Marguerites are among my favorite antique dolls to reproduce. Their costuming offers a chance to think outside the traditional box. I like to dress them in styles crafted from vintage hankies, like the one at the top of the post, with gusset pleats. They also give me a good excuse to use antique and vintage lace in soft pastel colors.

I discovered my first pieces of pastel antique lace, the first two in the photo above, at an antique store in New Orleans a number of years ago, and they have been a special part of my collecting habits ever since.

I have added a number of pastel selections to the lace collection for sale here, on the La Dentellière pages. The lace above is currently available on eBay.

Les nouveautes: New at La Dentelliere and on eBay

Posted on Sunday 24 October 2010 by Tatie

Bebe Jumeau, from www.carmeldollshop.com

Dressing a sweet-faced Bébé Jumeau like the one above? Stop by La Dentellière, and take a look at the new old stock we have on the shelves. Pictured below are some of prettiest styles in the collection. I am especially fond of the second piece. I bought it during one of my first trips to the St. Ouen flea market in Paris.

It's also a good time to stop by eBay and take a look at what we have up for auction. Some of the beautiful items available are pictured below.

Visit both La Dentellière and our eBay auctions regularly. I will try to update both on a weekly basis. Of course, I'll have reminders here at Atelier Cheri, on Facebook and on Twitter. Hope you'll friend and follow me! à bientôt…Tatie

Introducing La Dentelliere, for antique lace and vintage trims

Posted on Friday 8 October 2010 by Tatie

For hundreds of years, across Europe and in the New World, one generation of women after another has treasured the finest laces and trims. They sought Valenciennes lace for a christening gown, or eyelet to adorn a crisp white pinafore, or the perfect handloom trim for a special frock. Many of them had the good fortune to shop at boutiques like the one above, La Dentellière, which is French for lacemaker or lace merchant.

First as a young mother creating heirlooms for my young daughter and later as an antique reproduction dollmaker, I have collected so many old laces and trims. I have shopped the flea markets in Paris, antique stores in Burgundy and Normandy as well as many small stores across the American South. I am once again offering these beautiful goods to the public, with an introductory sampling, including favorites from my last two trips to France. I will regularly add similar goods to the “new old stock” on my La Dentellière pages. Visit often to see what is there, and stay tuned to Atelier Cheri for the latest news.

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Category Archives: La dentellière: antique lace and vintage textiles