Onesies are the mainstay of the modern layette. My sister Bendie says there's nothing cuter than a baby snug in a tight little onesie, and I'm inclined to agree.
The creative Mom or Nana likes the canvas a onesie provides. Whether you embellish with a handcrafted rosette, like the one above, or an embroidered Christmas motif, it's a great way to make the mundane magnifique!
For rosettes, I enjoy using soft cotton ribbon made extra special with French script text.
With a little gathering and a little wrapping and a small piece of crinoline to tack it to, you end up with a precious little posey.
It adds artisanal texture to any design for a child. Pair an embellished onesie with a matching pair of booties for an exquisite baby shower gift.
Like the crenelated edge of the rosette "petals"? I used my brilliant antique pinking machine, above to cut it.
Inspired by the intricately scalloped edging of trim on antique doll costumes, I looked high and low for a gadget that would make the cut. I have scalloping shears, but the old edging was even more detailed.
Finally, I found reference to antique pinking machines used for fabric or leather (a favored taxidermist's tool). After making a regular search on eBay, I found the one above. It works amazingly well and has opened up all kinds of creative possibilities for embellishing children's styles.
My 91-year-old mother in law has made quilts since she was a child growing up on a farm in cold Michigan. She has given me her stash of fabric (hundreds of patterns!), vintage and not and I have have hand torn into ribbon. I will offer it in different widths, tea-stained and not, and hand-stamped and not.
I've developed quite a stock of Kristi's oh la la trims, and I notice she has added lots of new designs to her eBay store. Think I'll go do some shopping.
à bientôt...Tatie
They're also great for my new craze -- repurposing. Vintage pillowcases are an infinite resource. Don't you love the smell of cotton percale still warm from the iron? Years of a hot iron is what makes these old treasures so soft.
A lady's trousseau once had to include embroidered linens, and we are blessed today to have so many of them available. The hemstitching on this one was disintegrating, so I went into my collection of rococo trim and found the perfect piece to disguise and reinforce it.
Here and at top, Zoë shows off a dress I fashioned from an old printed pillowcase. You run ribbons or sashes through the top casings, front and back. I made my sashes on both of the featured models from Liberty of London cotton lawn.
A big thank you goes to my friend Kathleen Murphy for introducing me a couple of summers ago to pillowcase dresses. They pull together several of my favorite things: vintage linens, repurposed styles and designing dresses for my granddaughter, Zoë .
Contact me at atelier.cheri@gmail.com if you'd like a vintage pillowcase dress for a little girl you love. As with all of my designs, each is one-of-a-kind. I'll be glad to send you pictures of the pillowcases, trim and Liberty sash fabric available, along with a price for your bespoke creation.
à bientôt...Tatie, The Nana
Nothing has a bigger "awwwww" factor than a baby's layette. Add a little French touch, and "awwwww" becomes "oh la la!" It also means a lot of fun for this new Nana!
I had the pleasure of learning to "knit in French" when I lived in Paris. French women love to knit, and there are shops with everything knitters and other needle workers need in most every neighborhood. (These merceries stock hose and stockings, too. No clue what the connection is!) I especially like the little knitted romper style, like the one below left, that the French call a barboteuse. I can see one knitted in cotton for our little Zoë.
I am particularly enchanted by this booklet. For years, the French knitting magazine, Mon Tricot, published an annual layette edition. The cover always featured a head of cabbage, no doubt a reference to where babies come from!
Many French women over the decades have saved pristine copies of their layette booklets. I'm grateful that a few of them have found their way to eBay!

These two tiny frocks are repurposed couture -- each was a wispy adult blouse that I restructured as a baby girl's "float," as I like to call them. Chouette (meaning owl), at top, features the tiny pleats and clever buttons of the original, along with olive rayon ribbon rosettes at the shoulders. Lapins aux violettes (rabbits amid the violets), right, was recreated from a voile blouse with the tiniest bunnies all over. The rayon ribbon violets were added.
No layette would be complete without the ubiquitous Onesies. I've added some flounce with ruffles all around. Ciel moderne (modern sky), at right, is trimmed with a retro flour sack print that I found at Scott's antique market in Atlanta. Rose baroque (baroque pink), below, is ruffled with a pink and baroque print with tiny bunnies hiding amid the swirls and flourishes. Both feature tiny ribbon blossoms.

If you haven't yet touched any of the bamboo sustainable fabrics, do so at your earliest opportunity -- it's as soft as a puff of spun sugar. I found a pack of three bamboo receiving blankets and created Rosier des nuages (rose bush in the clouds), below, featuring roses made of ombre picot ribbon and old French lace. I'll make Zoë one more of these comfy covers and reserve the third one for my own snugly needs!



Time to make more antique lace available for you at La Dentellière, our lace market here at Atelier Chéri. This round includes an array of my favorite tiny selections -- all less than 1/2" wide.
This is something of an eclectic selection of antique laces, like the styles above. The first two could be used along the edge of an heirloom creation or as a row of fine applique anywhere you need a touch of old lace on a garment. The last one on the right is somewhat similar to the middle piece of lace edging below -- both with the tiniest, airiest use of the lacemaker's finest thread.
Today's new old stock from my antique lace collection will be available for a time on eBay, at a special price. Check out my auctions here.
When you are creating a fancy band for your French handsewn baby gown, you'll need fine old French antique insertion lace, like that above. The method involves building a band with several rows of these straight-edge laces, finely sewn together by hand or with a tiny machine zigzag uniting the edges. Just about the best book ever on the handsewn technique is French Handsewing by my dear friend, Mary Frank King. It's out of print, but you can still find a copy on Amazon.com.
If you'd like to give a bit of an art deco touch to your French handsewn heirloom, the French antique insertion lace selections above are the perfect touch.
Vital to heirloom sewing and French handsewing is entredeux, pictured above, which literally translated from the French means "between two." Makes sense (the French always do): You'll use it to attach lace edging to a tiny collar or cuff. It is correctly pronounced ahn-truh duh, but you may need to call it ahn-truh doh for many American heirloom sewing shops to understand what you need. The first two styles, above, also can be used as shaped lace tape by pulling a thread on one side to make it curve.
The entredeux above is an extra special piece. It is still wrapped and tied to its original card and carries its label from the French department store Au Bon Marché. (The old packaging is not for sale.)
The two selections above came to me on a card labeled Vogue Lingerie Braid (more packaging that I'm keeping for myself), and I believe that refers to the twill tape at top. The other piece looks more like antique lace entredeux or beading, through which a tiny ribbon can be woven.Now is a good time to pick up this old store stock French antique lace that you'll be needing for that heirloom child's Easter dress or a christening gown or a special antique doll. It will be available on eBay for several weeks, then the pieces that don't sell will be available here at our La Dentellière lace market.
Thanks for looking. à bientôt...Tatie
The new year always makes me want to sew baby clothes. Perhaps because I began a great passion in January 1982, when I was first able to get out of the house after delivering my beautiful daughter. First on my agenda: Start her wardrobe of Southern handmade classics. I quickly learned that the only lace worthy of trimming her classic couture was the real thing: from France, all or mostly cotton, preferably old.
Over the years -- long after she decided she was too grown to wear the classics -- I have continued to collect antique French lace, much of it bought at the fabled Paris flea market. Now, it's available to those of you who've got that same great passion for handmade children's heirlooms. I've just listed a trunkful of antique lace at Etsy and on eBay. Best of all are the interesting prices.
Do you need the perfect trim for a baby daygown? Are you beginning a big project, a christening gown or a French handsewn Easter dress? Or do you just need a bit of old lace for a collar or sleeve on a smocked Bishop dress?
Maybe you need just the right piece of French antique lace for an antique doll or antique reproduction -- a bit of trim for a Bru or Jumeau, or a touch of Valenciennes lace for Bleuette's new frock.
Take your time browsing the ateliercheri shop at Etsy, or looking over my auctions on eBay.
Of course, there is plenty more antique lace and vintage trim right here, at Atelier Chéri, in the La Dentellière shop.
As always, I'll keep you updated as I make more of the lace, currently stored in old doll trunks and vintage Barbie cases (stay tuned for blog on those), available in my shops.
à bientôt...Tatie
At Christmas markets across the South, handmade children's holiday wear is a longstanding tradition. I remember seeing hand-smocked little dresses when Nashville's Christmas Village was first held at the old Hippodrome on West End. I introduced my line of hand-embroidered children's Christmas togs a couple of years ago at Tis the Season, sponsored by the Junior League of Nashville, My sisters and I had a booth that we called Chez Noël.
I'm not really sure why the tradition of hand-embroidered, smocked and handsewn heirloom children's clothes is a particularly Southern thing. But it sure hit home when I moved to the Washington, D.C. area and found that all the "necessaries" for children's heirlooms were not as readily available as they had been at home. I eventually said a fond farewell to that wonderful old city on the Potomac (which many actually consider to be in the South) to move home to Nashville. I won't say it was just because I missed my old sewing haunts, but I sure was glad to get back to them!
For me, The Children's Corner in Nashville has always been the gold standard for the finest children's sewing. It was opened during the early '80s by several Nashville girls who had learned smocking and heirloom sewing from the legendary Elizabeth Travis Johnson. Mrs. Johnson taught children's sewing for many years at Watkins Institute downtown, inspiring generations of young mothers and loving grandmothers.
I relied on just a few styles as I created my daughter's wardrobe. Among them: the smoked yoke dress and the "bishop," a simple Ragland sleeve style, above, in original Children's Corner illustrations.
Another of my favorites were hand-embroidered heirloom collars, like the one at left, available at my online Christmas market, Chez Noël. It's not a holiday motif, but it makes a special gift for the well-dressed little girl. And embroidered Christmas collars allow you to turn almost any little dresses into a perfect holiday outfit.
Another classic mainstay in my daughter's wardrobe were eyelet ruffle cotton panties. Those of us who practice the art of classic children's sewing will embroider just about anything, and these little bloomers lend themselves especially well to hand embroidery, particularly Christmas designs.
The ones at left feature an updated use of the old-fashioned knotted ribbon bow, like those often used to trim French handsewn christening gowns. I created the Christmas wreath with traditional embroidery techniques: the feather stitch and French knot. I've got numerous Christmas styles plus one sweet little year-round variety available at Chez Noël.
Another adorable palette for the embroiderer's needle is the simple Onesie, especially if you're looking for something less fussy, maybe for a little boy. My Christmas tree above is made up of feather stitch branches, French knot lights, and the treetop star is a bullion-knot rosette. You'll find holiday Onesies at Chez Noël in a wide variety of styles and sizes.
Want to put together a special outfit with, say, matching socks and collar like the candy cane designs above? No problem. Most all of our embroidery designs at Chez Noël can be applied to any of the clothing styles we have. Don't find the motif you want in the size you need? No problem. E-mail me at atelier.cheri@gmail.com, and I can provide what you need in time for that special holiday occasion, as long as you contact me by next Wednesday, 15 December.
Handsewing for children, at least for me, wasn't a passing fancy that I lost interest in after my daughter decided she was too old for the look (and that was much too soon for me). I love creating clothing for other people's children, just a preliminary, though, to the grandchildren which I'm told are not too far off. I also enjoy applying my classic children's clothing know-how to doll clothes, from antique to American Girl styles. The dolls never grow too old for the look!
à bientôt...Tatie In the centuries-old tradition of the European Christmas market, Atelier Cheri presents Chez Noël. Click here, and stop by for a visit.
The European markets, like the one above in Stuttgart, offer stall after stall of traditional handmade Christmas specialties. So it is here at Chez Noël.
Our specialties, like the ones sold at the Munich Christmas market on the Marienplatz, above, are all handmade.
Hand-embroidered Christmas wear for children reflects the Southern tradition of heirloom children's clothing.
Details, like the little knotted-ribbon bow that adorns the Christmas wreath on the eyelet ruffle panties, above, come from the Southern children's clothing tradition.
We're taking custom orders for our Belles of the Blade: Les Patineuses Christmas ornaments crafted from vintage ice show illustrations, which I wrote about last year.
Looking for something a little different for your Christmas village display? Our Putz cottages and churches are one-of-a-kind collectibles.
And, of course, our dolls get in on the act, giving a special touch to vintage bottle-brush trees.
We've also got some petite gift boxes with the especially chic styling of the classic Kelly handbag.
All in all, we're pretty excited here at Atelier Chéri about Chez Noël. As Christmas markets go, it's pretty special, a tribute to the creativity and craftmanship that we celebrate here. So, fix a nice cup of hot cocoa or rum punch, and treat yourself to a visit to our marketplace. Here's hoping Chez Noël will become a holiday tradition that you look forward to year after year!
à bientôt...Tatie
Robin's egg blue is the palest whiff of color. It's claimed a stylish and sturdy perch in design over the last few years, but it's nothing new, really.
The French, from the Bourbon eras (Louis XIV-XVI) up through the Restauration and Seconde Empire, all found the depth of this faint color.
Robin's egg really has quite a bit of range, never far at all from green. The color of my most favorite patisserie on the planet, Ladurée above, is so close, I'd call it robin's egg green.
Look closely at the robin's egg blue rubbed into the wood of the trumeau mirror above.
We who do French handsewing know it as Giger blue, the softest pale blue with an even paler green cast to it. (The companion Giger pink shares that same pallor, with the faintest whisper of yellow.)
Robin's egg manages to find its way into the prettiest places.
See that little bit of robin's egg giggling among this grand and girlish group?
Props to my girls at Paris Apartment and Aged and Gilded, plus Restyled Home and Peanutbutter n Jelly Kids for the great images.
à bientôt…Tatie
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