La Poste: The detective coat

 
There once was a little girl who told her mother: "I want a detective coat." Well, of course she did! Nothing withstands fashion's test of time like the trench coat. (Especially when it's paired with piles and piles of scarf, like the one above.)
As fashion week unfolds in Milan, London and elsewhere, Style.com's Tommy Ton grabs the looks on the street. Where women have got it, you're going to see the trench coat.
My fondness, obviously, is for the military green trench.
I still mourn the one I lost in the 2010 flood, never replaced it. I wear a black one now, but it's not the same.
This is a nice twist on the trench, but I'd lose the hat. Looks like Maréchal Pétain's, he who collaborated with the Nazis as France's occupation president.
This brocade number is good, and the greenish yellow makes it even better...à bientôt...Tatie (La Poste is an occasional entry where I share something pretty or smart from my email box.)

Chanel on Highland moors

Quick look at Chanel's pre-fall show, held near one of my favorite cities.

Wrote Tim Blanks for Style.com:
"Dressed to kilt." Get real, how else was Karl Lagerfeld going to define the collection he showed for Chanel outside of Edinburgh tonight? The tweeds, the knits, the cardigans, the man-styled essence of Chanel all came from Scotland and the time that Coco spent there with her lover the Duke of Westminster. But tonight's venue was Linlithgow Palace, where Mary, Queen of Scots, was born almost exactly seven centuries ago, and her tragic life gave Lagerfeld the perfect opportunity to gloss Chanel's easy pragmatism with an element of doomed romance. It was a fantastic combination.
Mary Queen of Scots feel to the sleeves here.

Something of the Edinburgh school girl.

Like Scotland, well-appointed but fun.

My favorite of one of the dreamy, creamy gowns at the end -- for the bride, I suppose.

chanel pre-fall kaiser

Lovely stickpin for the Kaiser. Hoot mon.

à bientôt...Tatie

 

Pillowcase dresses: Old linens and Liberty

Pillowcase dresses are the thing among the carriage set. Moms love them because they are easy to get on and off, and they make changing easy. Nanas love them because they're easy to make. Retailers must love them too, since they are showing up on the rack.
 

They're also great for my new craze -- repurposing. Vintage pillowcases are an infinite resource. Don't you love the smell of cotton percale still warm from the iron? Years of a hot iron is what makes these old treasures so soft.

A lady's trousseau once had to include embroidered linens, and we are blessed today to have so many of them available. The hemstitching on this one was disintegrating, so I went into my collection of rococo trim and found the perfect piece to disguise and reinforce it.
Here and at top, Zoë shows off a dress I fashioned from an old printed pillowcase. You run ribbons or sashes through the top casings, front and back. I made my sashes on both of the featured models from Liberty of London cotton lawn. A big thank you goes to my friend Kathleen Murphy for introducing me a couple of summers ago to pillowcase dresses. They pull together several of my favorite things: vintage linens, repurposed styles and designing dresses for my granddaughter, Zoë . Contact me at atelier.cheri@gmail.com if you'd like a vintage pillowcase dress for a little girl you love. As with all of my designs, each is one-of-a-kind. I'll be glad to send you pictures of the pillowcases, trim and Liberty sash fabric available, along with a price for your bespoke creation. à bientôt...Tatie, The Nana  

Pastel, Pouf and Party Pretty: Chanel Resort 2013

Cake and ice cream, anyone? My choices from Chanel's 2013 Resort Runway Collection would be right at home at a birthday party on the lawn. The ice cream pastels at left are all froth and frappé. Karl Lagerfeld told Style.com he wanted something floating and frivolous. "Frivolity is a healthy attitude," he said. "I know people who were saved by frivolity." May as well have been marshmallows: There is lots of pouf and puff in these selections. Each one features a touch of hand-detailing produces bubbly gathers or pompoms. What else would you wear to a birthday party on the lawns of Versailles? That's where Chanel showed off Resort 2013. These frocks echo the 17th and 18th centuries -- the glory days of the palace. As certain as the sundial of the Roi Soleil, you know there's always classic Coco Chanel construction in Karl Lagerfeld's collections. These three are my favorites this time. After the Kaiser's tartans, that is. à bientôt...Tatie Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Naturals and risk-takers: Swan Ball 2012

(Photos from a collection by George Walker IV, The Tennessean) Music City has more than its share of red-carpet events, but Old Nashville has the grande dame of elegant arrivals: the Swan Ball, benefitting the Cheekwood center for the arts. In looking over what the ladies wore, I was disappointed that there were so few risk-takers, like Johnna Watson. She pulled the look off perfectly and made an arrival to match. This year's chairladies, Sandra Lipman and Jacqueline Hutton, represented the creative and the classic, respectively. Both hit the mark beautifully. Elizabeth Nichols took the classic route in the style of her gown and the gossamer shawl, a lovely recurring theme at these things. She took a risk with the olive hues and notes of violet in her jewelry. The alchemy was a sensation. Why go any way but classic when it works as well as it does at right? My old friend, photographer George Walker IV, captured a tableau that should be framed and hanging in this unnamed girl's home. Nothing says classic like a black dress, and the timeless Fran Hardcastle wears it well. Just the right jewelry, just the right touch for a lady who is comfortable in her own skin. The venerable Francis Guess always arrives with a pretty girl on his arm, but none as gorgeous as his hdaughter, Maria. She gets it just right with a gown that is perfection, top to bottom. Wish we could have seen all of adorable Amy Joiner's aubergine gown. She opted for something different -- that much we ican see -- and it clearly was an excellent choice. Lise Morrow's dress, like the number worn by Maria Guess, shows the craftsmanship of perfectly-placed detailing, probably worked by hand. Lise took a chance, and the result couldn't have been prettier. I am forever smitten with silk dupioni taffeta and the easy way it drapes. From the imperial, above left, to the sultry, above right, it makes magic. Every city is graced with a scant few women whose beauty is without peer and whose grace is nothing but natural, regardless of what they wear. Nancy Cheadle, above left, and Trevania Henderson, the one on the right in the right hand photo, are two of whom Nashville can be most proud. Their dresses this year are fabulous as always, as is Nancy's forever date, John Cheadle, always the best-looking guy in the room. Nashville, like most places, has its unfortunate plastic surgery catastrophes, and there is always a selection of the waxworks on view at the Swan Ball, just like they are at the country music awards. (Though never the same women, mind you.) Too bad everyone isn't as comfortable with herself as the original Natural Woman, Aretha Franklin, who sang for this year's Swan Ball guests. With the Swan Ball behind them, off they go to Sea Island and Rock Island to recover. A little sunscreen goes a long way, girls. à bientôt...Tatie - Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

She'll be Running With Scissors!

This is a post I've waited a long time to write. Sometime around 20 April, my precious daughter and son-in-law will make my dear friend, Cathy Lind, and me grandmothers of a little girl named Zoë. I won't bore you with a doting grandmother's ramblings. But I will take this occasion to launch a creative project I've had in mind for several years: a couture line for little girls, called Running With Scissors. I'll be introducing prototype styles here at atelier chéri, like the dresses above and below, created for Zoë. These two tiny frocks are repurposed couture -- each was a wispy adult blouse that I restructured as a baby girl's "float," as I like to call them. Chouette (meaning owl), at top, features the tiny pleats and clever buttons of the original, along with olive rayon ribbon rosettes at the shoulders. Lapins aux violettes (rabbits amid the violets), right, was recreated from a voile blouse with the tiniest bunnies all over. The rayon ribbon violets were added. No layette would be complete without the ubiquitous Onesies. I've added some flounce with ruffles all around. Ciel moderne (modern sky), at right, is trimmed with a retro flour sack print that I found at Scott's antique market in Atlanta. Rose baroque (baroque pink), below, is ruffled with a pink and baroque print with tiny bunnies hiding amid the swirls and flourishes. Both feature tiny ribbon blossoms.
Another layette fundamental is the receiving blanket. Nuages à la campagne (clouds in the country), right, is crafted with green cotton flannel, with a Venise trim edging and a felted lamb or bunny at each corner. If you haven't yet touched any of the bamboo sustainable fabrics, do so at your earliest opportunity -- it's as soft as a puff of spun sugar. I found a pack of three bamboo receiving blankets and created Rosier des nuages (rose bush in the clouds), below, featuring roses made of ombre picot ribbon and old French lace. I'll make Zoë one more of these comfy covers and reserve the third one for my own snugly needs!
Nothing says baby like a hand-knitted pair of booties. The pair below, Crème de beurre (butter cream), are set off with flowers fashioned from pastel lace tape and pearls, and silk ribbon ties. I have a collection of old baby knitting books, and I turned to an Australian volume for these.
Every little girl needs a treasure box, and I restored the doll trunk below for Zoë. The figures on top are from a sheet of French paper dolls, and above the clasp is stamped "Mademoiselle."
I filled the chest with all the layette items above, plus a few more, and presented it to Olivia and JR at the magnificent baby shower given by my sisters, Sissy Watson, Kit Reuther and Mickie Marberry; JR's aunt, Kathleen Dillehay; and my best friends, Rebecca Pierce and Carolyn Long. Just a few of the yummy things on the menu: Carolyn's handmade pastel marshmallow peeps, Sissy's pork tenderloin and chicken salad on rolls, and Olivia's favorite, petit fours from Sweet and Sassy, topped with, what else, pink icing booties. It was a wonderful day with dozens of friends -- only to be topped by the day coming up in a few weeks, when we welcome Zoë, as we did her mother, at Baptist Hospital. It sho' will be a happy day! à bientôt...Tatie  

Time for plaids and pucks and the warmest season

Cooler weather and Nashville Predators hockey season couldn't come soon enough for those of us here in Smashville. There's nothing that expresses the richness of the coming cold than pretty plaids. Plaid delivers the jewel-tone hues that make winter -- a time of holidays that bring us together -- the warmest season of all. Designers from Paris, Milan and New York highlighted their most recent fall collections with plaids and tartans from head to toe. (Yes, I know they are preparing to show their Spring ready-to-wear. I'm playing catch-up with these great photos from Style.com.) Design for colder temps seems to carry a sophistication that we don't find in sandals and sundresses. Plaid gives a jacket easy structure, an intelligent sense of softness. The timeless lines of a sheath gain a dimension that might be missing from a little black dress when it's unambitiously simplistic.

Plaid delivers the jewel-tone hues that make winter -- a time of holidays that bring us together -- the warmest season of all. Designers from Paris, Milan and New York highlighted their most recent fall collections with plaids and tartans from head to toe.I recall a pair of great old wool plaid slacks handed down to me when preppy was real, not just a nostalgic knockoff. I can smell the cool air and the leaves on the ground. In recent years, it seems like we go from sweltering to snow days with barely a whiff of fall. Maybe we're just too busy to notice it.

My kind of busy these days means flats on my feet. I need to see if our new Nordstrom has a pair like these. Well, we'll be wearing our woolens soon enough, and hockey will start soon -- the preseason begins in Bridgestone Arena this Saturday night. We've had such sadness in recent weeks -- losing former Predators Wade Belak, Karlis Skrastins and Josef Vasicek. Let's remember them when we first gather, then move on, as they surely would wish. Drop the puck, and put on the plaids...à bientôt...Tatie

Chanel fall is coal-bin black

chanel fall sophistication Apologies that this is a few weeks after the fact. Against a backdrop of smoldering boulders and brimstone, Karl Lagerfeld presented a dark vision, with glints of the impeccable rich design he always brings. The ensemble above is as weightless as it is deep in vision.

chanel fall innocence

A little of the ingenue in this design, with all the innocence of scallops and all the world-weariness of shadows, gray on gray.

chanel fall concerned coat Still innocent with this lovely little coat, though its serious attention to style shows maturity beyond its youth. chanel fall foufou fun No vision at Chanel is ever so dark that there isn't room for a little fun, as with this dress-up whimsy. chanel fall confident couture Cliché and cleverness aside, this is a terribly sophisticated collection that is as confident as it is dark. Count on the Kaiser. Every friggin' time.

(And speaking of dark vision, the black lace is coming very soon, I promise. Lots of it.)

à bientôt...Tatie  

THE wedding of the year

The wedding couple of the year Saturday was one of the happiest days of my life: My beautiful daughter, Olivia, my only child, was married in our home to J.R. Lind, my son-in-law and my friend. I don't have to tell you what a beautiful couple they made. (Photos by our precious friend, Jenny Maldonado.) Olivia and JR Lind are wed She wore a gown of tulle, organza and silk shantung, and a chapel length tulle veil. She carried a bouquet of white hydrangeas, roses and lilies. Our friend, Councilman Jason Holleman, officiated. Olivia and JR's wedding Not only have I gained the best son-in-law ever, I consider myself blessed to count Cathy and Jim Lind among my friends. I've always had the incredible friendship of Olivia's father, Ken Quillen. Olivia and JR Lind are wed I cannot remember when I had as much fun designing and creating a dress. Olivia wanted pouf, so a layer of satin, four layers of tulle and three tiers of organza later, she got what she wanted. She produced a picture of the headpiece she wanted a week ago (eeeek!), but it was as easy as it was fun. Veil was a no brainer. Something old: antique French lace on her garter; something new: her dress; something borrowed: sister-in-law Julie's beautiful necklace; something blue: a tiny blue knotted heirloom bow on her garter. Miller, JR and Olivia model matching green Chuck Taylors Best part of the wedding attire, hands down, though, were the emerald green Chuck Taylor sneakers worn not only by bride and groom but also by the guest of honor, their nephew Miller Moore of Atlanta. Brian, Julie, Mason and Miller Moore with brother/uncle JR and new sister-in-law/aunt Olivia J.R.'s sister, Julie Moore, and her adorable family, Brian, Miller and the newest member, Mason, helped make the day a perfect one. Best Dog, Jackington Lind There was but one attendant, but that's all you need when you have one as fine as Jackington Lind. He wore a green bow tie, much like his dad's. For those who don't know J.R., the bow tie is his signature look, and Jack acquired the taste soon after J.R. and Olivia met. JR and Olivia being their old goofy selves What we all love most about J.R. and Olivia is their off-beat and very entertaining sense of humor. And that J.R. is a Jeopardy champion. And that they are Predators hockey fans. In fact, after a wedding luncheon at Noshville, we celebrated in a suite at Saturday's Predators game. They got some great face time and a big congratulations on the Megatron. Our opponents: the Phoenix Coyotes, who played on the night of Olivia and J.R.'s first hockey date. (Preds lost both games.) JR and Olivia Lind The most spectacular wedding of the year, no doubt, will be that of Kate Middleton and Prince William. It will outdo and eclipse EVERY OTHER WEDDING this year (and some of you know exactly why that makes me smile). But no wedding will be prettier, sweeter and more filled with love than the one held last Saturday in my home. May J.R. and Olivia's home be filled with as much joy as each of them has brought into all of ours. à bientôt...Tatie

Valentine's Day: Poufed and ruffled paper dolls

Valentine heart box with Marie Antoinette paper doll There couldn't be a better holiday for frilly, girly things than Valentine's Day. When I found these red foil heart boxes, I had no choice: They cried out for poufed and ruffled paper dolls. So I went to work on some of my signature creations, which start with a vintage French illustration, then are embellished with all manner of pretties and have jointed limbs, like the old Dennison paper dolls. Valentine heart box with Marie Antoinette paper doll, detail I get a wave of Marie Antoinette inspiration from time to time -- have been since I first studied her in the 1970s -- and Valentine's Day really is her kind of day. So, my first paper doll is a model of Marie style -- with much pomp and poufery provided by a clear cellophane petticoat and a skirt constructed of printed tissue and ribbon. A soupçon of German glass glitter here and there gave her elegant dimension. Perfect Valentine embellishments from my friends at Blümchen made the tableau complete.

Valentine heart box with rococo girl in red

As I may or may not have mentioned before, the color red is usually verboten for me, due to the intense rivalry between my beloved Nashville Predators hockey team and the dastardly Red Wings (whom we humiliated in the last two meetings, I might add). But, I relent at Christmas and Valentine's Day because the creative possibilities abound -- like this lovely lady in red.

Valentine heart box with rococo girl in red, detail

She is a variation on a fashion plate from 18th Century French Fashions. (Any fan of the froufrou and frills of the Marie Antoinette era needs a copy of this book filled with color plates.) With the ubiquitous heart-shaped doily, foil greetings and one of the stunning roses from the Prima collection, she is a vision (even if she is wearing red).

Valentine heart box with girl in black and pink

There is something especially chic about the play of black and pink together. That, along with an illustration from French Fashion plates of the Romantic Era, inspired this Valentine doll.

Valentine heart box with girl in black and pink, detail

This combination gave me a chance to use some of my treasured black lace as the underskirt. You know about my love for lace and the wonderful heirloom creations that it makes possible for children and dolls. But my collection also includes yards of enchanting black lace -- with a sense of mystery all its own. Stay tuned for its introduction here at Atelier Chéri and the opportunity to buy some of it at La Dentellière.

Valentine's box with girl dressed in blue

Last was this little ingenue arrayed in tulle and printed tissue. She also was inspired by one of the plates in French Fashion Plates of the Romantic Era, as was the black-and-pink number above.

Valentine box with girl in blue, detail

The Romantic Era (during the 19th century) has been on my mind a little more than usual this Valentine's Day season. Not only is it my first as Mike's wife, but it finds me busy putting together a small family wedding for my precious daughter. Just as I made all of her little smocked and handsewn dresses when she was little, I am making her wedding dress. Amid clouds of tulle and organza, I am having a ball! Hope to share wedding pictures in the next week.

à bientôt...Tatie