Pillowcase dresses: Old linens and Liberty

Pillowcase dresses are the thing among the carriage set. Moms love them because they are easy to get on and off, and they make changing easy. Nanas love them because they're easy to make. Retailers must love them too, since they are showing up on the rack.
 

They're also great for my new craze -- repurposing. Vintage pillowcases are an infinite resource. Don't you love the smell of cotton percale still warm from the iron? Years of a hot iron is what makes these old treasures so soft.

A lady's trousseau once had to include embroidered linens, and we are blessed today to have so many of them available. The hemstitching on this one was disintegrating, so I went into my collection of rococo trim and found the perfect piece to disguise and reinforce it.
Here and at top, Zoë shows off a dress I fashioned from an old printed pillowcase. You run ribbons or sashes through the top casings, front and back. I made my sashes on both of the featured models from Liberty of London cotton lawn. A big thank you goes to my friend Kathleen Murphy for introducing me a couple of summers ago to pillowcase dresses. They pull together several of my favorite things: vintage linens, repurposed styles and designing dresses for my granddaughter, Zoë . Contact me at atelier.cheri@gmail.com if you'd like a vintage pillowcase dress for a little girl you love. As with all of my designs, each is one-of-a-kind. I'll be glad to send you pictures of the pillowcases, trim and Liberty sash fabric available, along with a price for your bespoke creation. à bientôt...Tatie, The Nana  

Pastel, Pouf and Party Pretty: Chanel Resort 2013

Cake and ice cream, anyone? My choices from Chanel's 2013 Resort Runway Collection would be right at home at a birthday party on the lawn. The ice cream pastels at left are all froth and frappé. Karl Lagerfeld told Style.com he wanted something floating and frivolous. "Frivolity is a healthy attitude," he said. "I know people who were saved by frivolity." May as well have been marshmallows: There is lots of pouf and puff in these selections. Each one features a touch of hand-detailing produces bubbly gathers or pompoms. What else would you wear to a birthday party on the lawns of Versailles? That's where Chanel showed off Resort 2013. These frocks echo the 17th and 18th centuries -- the glory days of the palace. As certain as the sundial of the Roi Soleil, you know there's always classic Coco Chanel construction in Karl Lagerfeld's collections. These three are my favorites this time. After the Kaiser's tartans, that is. à bientôt...Tatie Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Naturals and risk-takers: Swan Ball 2012

(Photos from a collection by George Walker IV, The Tennessean) Music City has more than its share of red-carpet events, but Old Nashville has the grande dame of elegant arrivals: the Swan Ball, benefitting the Cheekwood center for the arts. In looking over what the ladies wore, I was disappointed that there were so few risk-takers, like Johnna Watson. She pulled the look off perfectly and made an arrival to match. This year's chairladies, Sandra Lipman and Jacqueline Hutton, represented the creative and the classic, respectively. Both hit the mark beautifully. Elizabeth Nichols took the classic route in the style of her gown and the gossamer shawl, a lovely recurring theme at these things. She took a risk with the olive hues and notes of violet in her jewelry. The alchemy was a sensation. Why go any way but classic when it works as well as it does at right? My old friend, photographer George Walker IV, captured a tableau that should be framed and hanging in this unnamed girl's home. Nothing says classic like a black dress, and the timeless Fran Hardcastle wears it well. Just the right jewelry, just the right touch for a lady who is comfortable in her own skin. The venerable Francis Guess always arrives with a pretty girl on his arm, but none as gorgeous as his hdaughter, Maria. She gets it just right with a gown that is perfection, top to bottom. Wish we could have seen all of adorable Amy Joiner's aubergine gown. She opted for something different -- that much we ican see -- and it clearly was an excellent choice. Lise Morrow's dress, like the number worn by Maria Guess, shows the craftsmanship of perfectly-placed detailing, probably worked by hand. Lise took a chance, and the result couldn't have been prettier. I am forever smitten with silk dupioni taffeta and the easy way it drapes. From the imperial, above left, to the sultry, above right, it makes magic. Every city is graced with a scant few women whose beauty is without peer and whose grace is nothing but natural, regardless of what they wear. Nancy Cheadle, above left, and Trevania Henderson, the one on the right in the right hand photo, are two of whom Nashville can be most proud. Their dresses this year are fabulous as always, as is Nancy's forever date, John Cheadle, always the best-looking guy in the room. Nashville, like most places, has its unfortunate plastic surgery catastrophes, and there is always a selection of the waxworks on view at the Swan Ball, just like they are at the country music awards. (Though never the same women, mind you.) Too bad everyone isn't as comfortable with herself as the original Natural Woman, Aretha Franklin, who sang for this year's Swan Ball guests. With the Swan Ball behind them, off they go to Sea Island and Rock Island to recover. A little sunscreen goes a long way, girls. à bientôt...Tatie - Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Vive la layette!

Nothing has a bigger "awwwww" factor than a baby's layette. Add a little French touch, and "awwwww" becomes "oh la la!" It also means a lot of fun for this new Nana!

For several years, I've collected French layette booklets from the '30s, '40s and '50s , and the one pictured at left is one of my favorites. It is filled with ideas for everything from knitted dainties to the classic styles in the center spread below. The soft tones of shell pink and powder blue make you want one of each.

I had the pleasure of learning to "knit in French" when I lived in Paris. French women love to knit, and there are shops with everything knitters and other needle workers need in most every neighborhood. (These merceries stock hose and stockings, too. No clue what the connection is!) I especially like the little knitted romper style, like the one below left, that the French call a barboteuse. I can see one knitted in cotton for our little Zoë.

I am particularly enchanted by this booklet. For years, the French knitting magazine, Mon Tricot, published an annual layette edition. The cover always featured a head of cabbage, no doubt a reference to where babies come from!

Many French women over the decades have saved pristine copies of their layette booklets. I'm grateful that a few of them have found their way to eBay!

à bientôt...Tatie

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Chintz: Beyond the slipcover

(Important note: Zoë Josephine Lind was born to my daughter and son-in-law at 7:25 p.m., last Friday, as the Predators were knocking off the Red Wings. She weighed in at 11 lbs, 4 oz. A c-section was not required. Heroes do play here.)

Chintz brings to mind a down-stuffed chair, a sofa worn soft by family and friends. It's where a piping cup of tea is sipped, a novel is read, rain is heard on the window pane.

It's also a style of pottery that features "tightly grouped, highly detailed and vibrant all-over floral patterns," as described on the website for Royal Winton. There is plenty of chintz ware to be found in gift shops and among the department store tabletop displays.

But Royal Winton chintz sets the standard. Originally know as Grimwades, the artisans at the Royal Winton factory still produce this most English of tableware.

My first encounter with chintz ware was a bonbon stand not unlike the one at right, which I recently added to my collection. Details of the pattern, Royal Winton's Florence, below. The black background is particularly stunning, I think.

One of the richest patterns is Julia, below right and at top, from my collection. Like Florence, Julia is still produced. Notice the art deco influence in the shape of the nut dish, at top, next to my grandmother Mammy's portrait. She was something of an art deco design during her dance card days.


Note a couple of other patterns, below, from the Royal Winton website. Brings to mind clotted cream and scones.


Keep an eye out for Royal Winton or Grimwades chintz ware. eBay is a good place to browse and learn about the patterns, including old ones no longer in production. There are plenty of plates, dinner-size and smaller, and cups and saucers. I look for the odd little piece. Bargains are rare to non-existent.

But when you find one you can afford, don't miss out on it, especially if you like a plump, worn, slipcovered sofa on a rainy afternoon. A piece of Royal Winton chintz ware completes it.

à bientôt...Tatie

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She'll be Running With Scissors!

This is a post I've waited a long time to write. Sometime around 20 April, my precious daughter and son-in-law will make my dear friend, Cathy Lind, and me grandmothers of a little girl named Zoë. I won't bore you with a doting grandmother's ramblings. But I will take this occasion to launch a creative project I've had in mind for several years: a couture line for little girls, called Running With Scissors. I'll be introducing prototype styles here at atelier chéri, like the dresses above and below, created for Zoë. These two tiny frocks are repurposed couture -- each was a wispy adult blouse that I restructured as a baby girl's "float," as I like to call them. Chouette (meaning owl), at top, features the tiny pleats and clever buttons of the original, along with olive rayon ribbon rosettes at the shoulders. Lapins aux violettes (rabbits amid the violets), right, was recreated from a voile blouse with the tiniest bunnies all over. The rayon ribbon violets were added. No layette would be complete without the ubiquitous Onesies. I've added some flounce with ruffles all around. Ciel moderne (modern sky), at right, is trimmed with a retro flour sack print that I found at Scott's antique market in Atlanta. Rose baroque (baroque pink), below, is ruffled with a pink and baroque print with tiny bunnies hiding amid the swirls and flourishes. Both feature tiny ribbon blossoms.
Another layette fundamental is the receiving blanket. Nuages à la campagne (clouds in the country), right, is crafted with green cotton flannel, with a Venise trim edging and a felted lamb or bunny at each corner. If you haven't yet touched any of the bamboo sustainable fabrics, do so at your earliest opportunity -- it's as soft as a puff of spun sugar. I found a pack of three bamboo receiving blankets and created Rosier des nuages (rose bush in the clouds), below, featuring roses made of ombre picot ribbon and old French lace. I'll make Zoë one more of these comfy covers and reserve the third one for my own snugly needs!
Nothing says baby like a hand-knitted pair of booties. The pair below, Crème de beurre (butter cream), are set off with flowers fashioned from pastel lace tape and pearls, and silk ribbon ties. I have a collection of old baby knitting books, and I turned to an Australian volume for these.
Every little girl needs a treasure box, and I restored the doll trunk below for Zoë. The figures on top are from a sheet of French paper dolls, and above the clasp is stamped "Mademoiselle."
I filled the chest with all the layette items above, plus a few more, and presented it to Olivia and JR at the magnificent baby shower given by my sisters, Sissy Watson, Kit Reuther and Mickie Marberry; JR's aunt, Kathleen Dillehay; and my best friends, Rebecca Pierce and Carolyn Long. Just a few of the yummy things on the menu: Carolyn's handmade pastel marshmallow peeps, Sissy's pork tenderloin and chicken salad on rolls, and Olivia's favorite, petit fours from Sweet and Sassy, topped with, what else, pink icing booties. It was a wonderful day with dozens of friends -- only to be topped by the day coming up in a few weeks, when we welcome Zoë, as we did her mother, at Baptist Hospital. It sho' will be a happy day! à bientôt...Tatie  

La Poste: Time to get fresh

Eggs as seed planters Here we are again, yearning  for spring and finding glints of light and life amid the rich brown of sleeping earth. Like eggshells as fresh-looking seed starter pots. Remodelista included some rich, sleepy browns in its 28 February files, in a couple of totally unrelated items.
  Aged tin ceiling tiles grow fresh against a clean white wall The brown of the ancient pressed tin fleur de lys ceiling tiles grow fresh, sitting above washed white tile walls, at Iris Café in Brooklyn Heights.
  Fresh restored bricks stand up to the baroque detail of old frames I find restored bricks and brick walls to have a clean, fresh feel. The wall above, also at Iris Café, stands up well to the baroque detailing of old picture frames.
  Seed frames amid stones and bricks of a Victorian yard Meanwhile, back outside, the bricks and stones of a Victorian yard in Cornwall, England are made fresh by white cold frames sporting tender sprouts. Speaking of sprouts, stay tuned. Something fresh and fancy coming soon! à bientôt...Tatie

(La Poste is a frequent feature where I share some little bit of design or creativity found in my email inbox.)     

La Poste: Black. White. A pinch of Poirot?




Catching up on Remodelista newsletters, I picked up a little black and white goodness to share. Special touch: I saved the images with the Silver filter in my CameraBag app. This espresso machine took on a rich noir feel.


The façades of a couple of elegant Paris hotels look like deco-era photos, but both were only recently photographed. Sunlight throws a creamy finish on the masonry.





A couple of entryways, above and below, each beckon with a bit of mystery.


More intrigue: Tapers, like intricately turned wood, stand tall in mercury glass and tarnished silver candlesticks below. Framed by a battered old whitewashed door, a question seems to hang in the air.


I just may stick with a black and white palette in my craftwork this year. Ideas welcome. à bientôt...Tatie


La Poste is an occasional feature that showcases design and craftmanship from newsletters and blogs that I enjoy.


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La Poste: Haberdashery, high tea and sterling

Silver trays Fine silver along with rich wood and upholstery make a combination that hits on so many senses: touch, taste and, of course, visual. Perhaps there's no finer way to serve something for the senses than with vintage silver butler trays, above. Add an element of men's haberdashery for a peppery note, and you have the intriguing highlights of a recent Remodelista report. Fine shirting upholsters chair One item presented Obsolete, a Venice, California, furniture maker and their chair that's all tufts and men's haberdashery tailoring. This piece is upholstered in men's fine shirting. Silver tea setting It's not much of a jump at all to a table appointed for tea at the Wolseley in London, where late afternoon light reflects off a silver tea setting and an intimate gathering among friends. Library chair upholstered in men's suiting Then, it's back to the deep and delicious tones of Obsolete's library chair upholstered in men's suiting. I'm longing for crisper temperatures and the shadows they cast that remind me of a European autumn. These treats for the senses almost hit the spot. á bientôt...Tatie La Poste is an occasional feature of Atelier Chéri where I share a particularly good blog post or newsletter item from my email inbox.

Time for plaids and pucks and the warmest season

Cooler weather and Nashville Predators hockey season couldn't come soon enough for those of us here in Smashville. There's nothing that expresses the richness of the coming cold than pretty plaids. Plaid delivers the jewel-tone hues that make winter -- a time of holidays that bring us together -- the warmest season of all. Designers from Paris, Milan and New York highlighted their most recent fall collections with plaids and tartans from head to toe. (Yes, I know they are preparing to show their Spring ready-to-wear. I'm playing catch-up with these great photos from Style.com.) Design for colder temps seems to carry a sophistication that we don't find in sandals and sundresses. Plaid gives a jacket easy structure, an intelligent sense of softness. The timeless lines of a sheath gain a dimension that might be missing from a little black dress when it's unambitiously simplistic.

Plaid delivers the jewel-tone hues that make winter -- a time of holidays that bring us together -- the warmest season of all. Designers from Paris, Milan and New York highlighted their most recent fall collections with plaids and tartans from head to toe.I recall a pair of great old wool plaid slacks handed down to me when preppy was real, not just a nostalgic knockoff. I can smell the cool air and the leaves on the ground. In recent years, it seems like we go from sweltering to snow days with barely a whiff of fall. Maybe we're just too busy to notice it.

My kind of busy these days means flats on my feet. I need to see if our new Nordstrom has a pair like these. Well, we'll be wearing our woolens soon enough, and hockey will start soon -- the preseason begins in Bridgestone Arena this Saturday night. We've had such sadness in recent weeks -- losing former Predators Wade Belak, Karlis Skrastins and Josef Vasicek. Let's remember them when we first gather, then move on, as they surely would wish. Drop the puck, and put on the plaids...à bientôt...Tatie